Dancing in the Streets of Kathmandu

Sam in his daura suruwal and me in my sari

Sam and I recently attended a Hindu wedding. The celebrations last 2 days, and Sam and I each bought and wore traditional Nepali outfits. Sam wore a daura suruwal with a black topi (pronounced toe-pee) or Nepali hat, while I wore a sari, blouse, high heels, lots of bangle bracelets and Ambika even talked me into wearing a little make-up!

I had heard that learning to put on a sari is quite a task; an art form, if you will. But honestly, it's a piece of fabric that's several yards long and about 4 feet wide that is wrapped around the waist with one end draped over the shoulder. How hard could that really be? As it turns out, even after trying on 3 different saris and then wearing the one I bought for both days of the wedding celebrations, I still have to have someone else help dress me!

The first day started at about 8am at the bride's parents' restaurant with lots of Hindu pujas (worship, prayer and ceremonial traditions), but everyone shows up throughout the day, so Sam, Ambika and I arrived several hours later, which was good since I needed the extra time and help to put on my sari, heels, bracelets and make-up! The bride and groom sat and welcomed everyone, while many pujas and traditions were performed, music played and a few men were dancing in traditional Nepali style... at one point they even got Sam and I to join them for a few minutes!

Of course, there was a buffet with lots of delicious food... and soda. I don't normally drink soda, but it was a special occassion so I had 2 glasses, which meant I was good for the next few hours before my "sugar-caffeine high" wore off! Luckily, Sam and I went home for a few hours to rest before we left for that evening's festivities across town at the groom's parents' house.

The procession of music and dancing leading
the for the bride and groom's car

The evening festivities started about 6:30pm several blocks away from the groom's parents' house. People started getting out of their vehicles; there was a band (like a small marching band) playing and the whole entourage walked and danced down the street followed by the car with the bride and groom in it.

Ambika and Wendy dance in front of the groom's parents' house

When they got to the groom's parents house, more of us were waiting dancing, singing and celebrating on the sidewalk, and everyone continued to dance in front of the house and in the street, including the bride and groom for what felt like hours, at least to my feet, but was probably only about 15-30 minutes! People walking by, as well as neighbors, stopped to watch the celebrations, and just before we all went inside, a bunch of strands of Christmas-like lights were lit up and hanging from the top of the house to several stories down. It was beautiful!

Puja to Laxmi, the goddess of wealth and prosperity

After that the bride and groom stopped several times on the way upstairs to perform a few more pujas and traditions before making their way to the groom's parents' living room, where more blessings and tikas (the red "dots" on the foreheads) were given before they took a bunch of pictures with everyone. Finally (by this time it was about 10pm, and remember, the festivities started at 8 am!), they served some more food and slowly people started to go home to get some sleep before the next day's festivities.

The groom's parents had prepared a room for the bride and groom that had previously been the bride's room during the week leading up to the wedding, so at least they didn't have to go anywhere else that night, after more than 14 hours of celebrations! We didn't get home until after midnight, which is WAY past my bedtime, but luckily, the next day's festivities didn't start until 3 pm!

The next day was more relxed for the bride and groom, since there were not a lot of pujas going on. It was more like our American Christian wedding receptions. The bride and groom started off sitting at the front of a large room filled with lots of chairs for the family and guests. People offered congratulations, gifts and took pictures with the bride and groom, while everyone mingled, visited with each other and waiters and waitresses came around with snack foods, sodas (I only had one this time!), etc. There was also a separate room with another delicious buffet style meal for guests to enjoy throughout the evening. And of course, as the evening went on, the music started and there was more dancing!

Princesses posing for "Sam Uncle"

Ambika's girls attended the second day of festivities and after an hour or two of sitting and eating the snacks that were being brought around, Sam suggested the girls might enjoy it if we took them down to the hotel courtyard, so they could run around a bit, and we could take some pictures of them. The girls are definitely NOT camera shy! Sam would be in the middle of taking a picture of one or more of the girls, and any of the girls that were not in that picture would be in various places in the courtyard yelling, "Sam Uncle, take my picture!" or "Sam Uncle, over here!" This all lasted for about an hour before Sam and I were worn out and the girls went back upstairs.

Sam takes a break from behind the camera to get a picture with the girls

Finally at about 7 pm, I was exhausted and ready to go home, so Sam and I said our good-byes, loaded our pariwar (family) in the car and headed home. That evening as I fell into bed, Sam and I heard the girls upstairs singing Nepali Christian praise and worship songs before they went to bed. It was like falling alseep to a choir of angels singing from above... an amazing end to an exciting (and exhausting) two days!

A HUGE thank you to the bride, groom and their families who were amazing. They made us feel welcome, checked to make sure we were having fun, getting enough food to eat and included us in pictures, conversations, etc. Basically, they included us as part of their family. Raju and Dhenu, we wish you abundant blessings and a lifetime of happiness. Thank you for allowing us to be part of your wedding celebrations!

The bride and groom with the groom's parents and brother.